We are currently living in an age of information. It's so easy to get carried away with the next skincare fad, because of the sheer amount of products and overwhelming mountain of information.
Over the years, I've been able to nut out the fundamentals to achieving healthy skin. Skin that is in it's healthiest state is plump, hydrated, bouncy and glowy. This isn't a post on how to reverse time. It's not about anti-ageing techniques. I want you guys to have healthy skin that can be achieved at any age, any time.
This is one of the principles I've stuck to when scouring for new skincare products . It has yet to fail me in filtering out the BS that is out there.
Just to preface what I'm about to say: water can mean anything that hydrates, comes from water source like plants, etc. Oils can mean ingredients that seal in moisture in the skin. They can range from the oils you know (rose hip) to ingredients that merely create a barrier on the skin.
1. The skin needs a balance of water and oil.
Truly healthy skin has a glow. It is firm to the touch and doesn't overly fluctuate in oil/dryness. Whether your skin is oily, dry, combination, acneic, or ageing, you can achieve healthy, hydrated skin by maintaining this balance. Your top layer of skin has pools of water and is sealed by a layer of waxes and sebum. An imbalance of any of these levels can create improper function in the skin. Too little water in the skin leads to overproduction of oil or dry cracked skin. Too much oil and little water in the skin can lead to acne or rough skin texture.
If you're on the oily side, your main focus is hydration through water products. Your skin could be overproducing oil in order to a) provide a barrier against the environment or b) provide a layer to prevent water loss from the skin due to dehydration or c) fluctuation in hormonal levels. Skin dehydration is really common, especially if you live in dense populated areas, so pump your skin with loads of hydration. Don't skip the oils either. You don't need to go completely oil free. Have a lightweight serum that has a thicker consistency or moisturiser with oils to help balance your skin's production of oil.
Dry skin types don't produce much oil, so there is no barrier to protect it from water loss in the environment. It requires loads of water AND oil products in the skin. Milky, creamy, thicker textures generally suit this skin type. They should also be combined with hydrating toners/essences in order to fill those pools of water in the skin.
Combination skin is a mix of different imbalances around the face. This is where you experiment. Maybe your skin likes more watery products and only one oil on the cheeks. Experiment with layering more water based products than oily products as the skin will always need to be hydrated. Experiment, play and observe. You know your skin more than anyone else.
2. Products are a combination of water and oil.
Most products are a combination of oil and water ingredients. There are countless polymers, esters, butters, and many other scientific terms that can easily confuse you when looking at ingredients lists, but if you remember that these are just types of water/oil derivatives, you'll have an easier time. Certain polymers/waxes/emulsions are merely barrier protecting ingredients which I classify as the 'oil' ratio of the product.
Each product is just a matter of ratios of water and oil, meaning the higher the water content, the more likely it's going to hydrate rather that seal. Where there is a higher oil content (thicker consistency) you should be placing it later in the routine because it will help to create a shield to keep in the moisture. Essentially your toners, essences, ampoules and some serums have more of a watery texture (higher water:oil ratio) and your lotions, moisturisers, serums have a higher amount oil due to the consistency. There are obviously exceptions to the rule as this is a massive generalisation.
Key things to remember:
Know how your oil is produced
Know the source of your oil production. It an be produced by very few ways. Hormones and environment. Your body has oil/sebum to protect your skin. If you can see that in certain climates/environments, say travelling overseas your skin gets a lot oilier/drier then you know you need to switch up your routine. Even observing when you step outside your house or come from the office, if you see a fluctuation it means your skin is affected by your surroundings. Hormonal oil production is a hard one to track but remember it can only be changed from the inside. Doctors even prescribe you medication over external creams when combatting skin conditions like acne.
It's not always about skin care.
Surprising statement to come from a skincare fiend but yes this is certainly true. Our skin is a reflection of what is happening internally so we need to take the clues and change what we put in our body. Drinking lots of water sounds like such simple advice but you'd be surprised at how much is can affect your skin. Diet is a major contributor to your skin and watching what you eat can greatly help. More on this topic later.
Good skin takes time.
It took you x amount of years to get to it's current state. Why would you think it can be reversed within a day/week/month? Take it easy on yourself and be patient.